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Joelfre Grant writes...

...about his experience while volunteering in the Kenya Orphanage program.

Diary Entries

· Machakos Rocks!! (5th September 2006)
· On my way to Masailand (8th September 2006)
· In Town (12th September 2006)
· Teacher, Doctor, Lawyer (8th October 2006)
· Tripe,thought we were friends (14th October 2006)
· It's been too long! (8th November 2006)
· Kibera (9th November 2006)
· Gorillas in the Mist (30th November 2006)

Machakos Rocks!! (5th September 2006)

Wow! Finally I'm where I'm going to be for awhile, and it feels real good!!

On Saturday afternoon we drove to Machakos (maybe 50 miles from Nairobi). The road is paved, but the potholes could swallow small vehicles, of which we were travelling...5 people and the trunk bursting with luggage (mostly mine). There was road construction for maybe ten miles that felt like 100. Windows up due to the dust, so you can imagine the temperature...ugh, but we made it and landed in Machakos. It is a very cute town, could be a town in California somewhere, except for the condition. There is a large church and then the streets run out from it so it seems very mission town like. Then we went up into the mountains outside of Machakos (10 miles) to Terry's Children Home and Support Services. We were taken there by the founder, Leah, her daughter, Patricia, and Edward, the safari worker at VICDA. He also has a home in this area that he visits on the weekends. That's what Leah does as well. She has a full-time job in Nairobi and then comes out here on some weekends. Leah is an amazing person who is making huge strides for her community, the children, elders, and infrastructure.

So Saturday night was settling into the house. It is a nice house set on a farm where there are banana trees and other beautiful foliage. They have something called a bottle brush tree that is gorgeous. And the farm overlooks valleys that are also beautiful. The earth is reddish and nice here. There is no electricity and toileting is in a latrine. But it's all part of the experience. I am adjusting to both...

Sunday, Leah was co directing a medical camp about a 1/2 mile away. We helped get the children there and back. I also did some intake forms. That was funny as I don't speak Kiswahili or Kikumba, the local tribal language. We then went back to the home with the children to play with them. What a great day. They were very excited by my digital camera. I have a lot of great pictures! Already have some children that are becoming good friends. David is very clever and sweet. Gideon wants to be loved. As of Sunday night's trip to the watering hole, I am both of their best friend..)

Speaking of the watering hole, that is quite a trek. It's about these incredible children that went up a hill and down a valley to get water for the camp. Coming up was much easier of course...each child has an appropriate sized container for their size to carry. Though some of the large containers were heavy for me to heft. But we made it smiling!

So I am already sooooo inspired by my time here. These kids are great and so is this place. Yesterday we went to a local school where we (the volunteers) are teachers!! It went pretty well, considering that they handed me a book and said teach. The children are incredibly well behaved and polite. I am teaching Standard 4 and Standard 5 English at this point. But Standard 7 keeps pulling me into their classroom (literally!) and asking me to teach them Maths...we'll see.

Katherine and I are trying to go visit some of the volunteers in Masailand this weekend, I really hope that works out....so cool.

It rained here a lot last night, but I'm finally sleeping a little better so it was okay. Everybody here is cold, but it feels great to me!! We are about 6000 feet altitude up at the home, so the hike up the hill to the school in the morning is schooling me on fitness. I'm not passing (OUT) yet, so I'm sure it will only get better!!

We took our first trip into town today. There is a taxi driver that is a friend of Leah's so he gives a good rate and waits for us at every stop. We have been to the bank, supermarket, open air produce market, and now here at the internet cafe.

I will sign off for now. I'm considering staying here for two months and then going to Nairobi in November.

Thanks for commenting on the blog site. Your comments really do help!

On my way to Masailand (8th September 2006)

Well, it is Friday and I am in Nairobi on my way to Masailand. I have to admit the first thing I did was go to the restroom, flush toilets are nice!!

We had quite a scare two nights ago with one of our girls, she has severe malaria and had to be taken to the hospital in Machakos. She is doing better now and went home today. Mama Leah came from Nairobi yesterday in case she had to transport the girl to Nairobi. So when Mama Leah was in the hospital yesterday she saw a little boy laying there with ants crawling on his face while a nurse was sitting a few feet away watching television. She argued with the nurse and caused an uproar. Eventually she told them that she serves on the National Council for Children (the highest board for children in Kenya). So today they had cleaned him and such. But the reason they don't do much for him is because he has multiple disabilities. They had told her he had been abandoned and was three years old and paralyzed. So today we went there to pick up our little girl and we saw Dennis, the little boy. It was so difficult to see him. We brought him clothes and fresh linens. They said he was blind, deaf, mute, and paralyzed.

Mama Leah was by him first, talking with him and touching him. Then she was talking with the nurses about the girl. I waited and finally went over to him to talk with him. He definitely has hearing, and he grabbed my finger with his fingers. We think he may have some vision as well. So I was doing okay, I decided I was going to talk with him regardless of what the nurses thought. So then Mama Leah went over and hugged the other volunteer, Simeon. He teared up and then I teared up. But I held it together mostly. So then they bathed Dennis. He fit in one of the dollar store plastic wash tubs, maybe 18 inches across at the top. So then they dressed him and Mama Leah wanted me to take pictures with my digital camera. She is going to try to involve the media to get him a home, but if not, then he will come live with us at Terry's Children Home. As we were leaving, Mama Leah told me she found out he is SIX years old! She too thinks he need physical therapy, speech therapy etc.

Then we were on our way to Nairobi. It's quite a road. Paved most of the way, but big holes...When we got to the office, the safari guy said I was supposed to have gone this week, confusion!! But I will go next week.

I am humbled every day to be in this place with these amazing children. They are thrilled when I give them a sticker the size of the tip of my pinky. They always hold my hands when we walk back from school or anywhere. They are always looking out for me when we go to fetch water. And they are the ones generally without shoes!!

The other volunteers and I are paying for 9 school uniforms ($8.00/uniform) and 8 pairs of shoes ($5.00/pair). I will post the address if you would like to give anything. I don't have it with me at this moment.

If you ever think you have it rough, remember the ones that have it rougher and are still smiling and singing!!! The children love to sing and dance. I hope I can upload a video of them singing!

Take care of you and those you love!!

In Town (12th September 2006)

Well, I feel so lucky to have access after just two days! We are in Machakos getting some groceries, charging cell phones, and getting some supplies for a going away party for Simeon. We will have the party tomorrow night and then he will be on his way back to New Zealand via Mozambique and the U.S.

It was sooo great to come back on Sunday and then go see the children. They were so excited to see us. Yesterday we went to the school we've been going to but today we went to a different school. Mostly so that Simeon could visit it and some of our kids who attend there before he heads out.

After I wrote last we caught a matatu (it was no problem) back to Machakos (150 Kenyan Shillings, about $2.25)We made it back in good time, got a few supplies in town and called our taxi friend to take us up the mountain.

I found out that I had misspelled my Kikumba name, it is Mutuku, there is no 'o' in it. And, speaking of names, I also received one in Masailand. It is Olomayiana which means 'Blessed Boy.' That was pretty cool. I was named by my new friend and Masailand guide, Joseph. He also gave me two ornaments that his mother made for me, very nice.

I can't believe I've only been here two weeks, it seems like much longer. We are pretty much in a routine already, and like I said it felt great to be back in Machakos. So, our routine: we get up between 6:30 and 7:00, use the toilet, take our bucket shower, have breakfast and are ready to walk to school at 7:45. By the way, the children have to be at school at 6:30!! They have like a prep time before school begins at 8:00. We get there around 8:00 for part of their morning assembly. Then we begin teaching at about 8:20. I have been teaching Standard 4 (grade 4?) English, Math, and P.E. and Standard 5 English. In standard 5 we performed a play and I videoed it. I took in supplies so that they could make animal masks for the play, they were very excited.

I should describe the classrooms. They are long single story buildings with several rooms. They are made out of large red earth bricks, with dirt floors, a chalkboard and desks that are sort of like halves of picnic tables, bench and all. 3-4 children sit at each desk. I usually have 26-40 children in my classes. Today I worked with older children, Standard 7, and they still were sometimes four to a desk. I should say the desk is not as long as a picnic table, it is probably around 3 1/2 feet, so they are all very close!

I think I described the tea time ritual before but if not we have a 1/2 hour break from 11:00-11:30 where we are served tea (two cups or you're rude) and triangular fry bread called andazi. It is delicious!! Then we teach again until 12:40 and we return home for lunch. Then we stay at the orphanage and play with the younger children who do not return to the school after lunch. The older children go back and they finish at 4:10...

When we were in Masailand we compared food with other volunteers and found out that we, by far, have the best foods! We get an egg every morning for breakfast, and we always have a meat dish at lunch and at dinner. So, I'm not sure about my idea of losing some weight here! Though the walking has been good, even if I'm huffing and puffing!! That has gotten better each day. If you can believe it I caught a cold in Kenya. So my head is pretty full of junk and hurts, but oh well!!

We attempted a water relay to get the water last night to kind of spice it up a bit. It worked okay except that two of the children that don't live there went home and left their relay stations!! But we got the water home and it was okay.

I guess that's all for now. I will probably be able to check email on Thursday before I head out to Masai Mara on Friday for the safari!!

Teacher, Doctor, Lawyer (8th October 2006)

Teaching here has been a great and interesting experience. It is amazing to me that they let we volunteers enter the classroom immediately and take up teaching. I am a teacher by profession, but the other volunteers were not. Still, we were all welcomed into the classrooms. The children in general here are very well behaved, much better than children would be with a substitute in the US. They have a lot of respect for the teachers. And they love to sing, dance, and recite poems. They really love to teach me words in their Mother Tongue, Kikamba. I think they just like to hear me pronounce the words incorrectly at least three times before I produce something that sounds sort of like it's supposed to sound! I was at Kathalani for the first month and so had gotten to know the Standard 4 and Standard 5 pupils fairly well. One day a couple of weeks ago a boy in Standard 4 who has a good mastery of the English language passed me a note. It said,"Geoffrey, please tell can you tell me when will we meet again? _____________ (then) I want you tell me your phone number, please _____________" A different boy who doesn't speak much English promptly passed me a geometric drawing. I put both notes in my bag and carried on...then I went to Standard 5. When I returned later in the day, I received another note from the boy. This one read,"Don't forget what I told you in the other paper." I told him that I would be back at the school the next day and that I didn't have a phone. The lack of phone thing isn't completely true, but oh well...I really think it is just innocent interest/curiosity in the mzungu teacher, but I had a crush on my Fourth Grade teacher, so who's to say?

My mother always wanted a doctor in the family, now she has at least a nurse of sorts. We have a child who has ringworms on his head. I noticed the bumps early last week. They looked horrible, especially one of them. So, I went to my dandy first aid kit (a must have) and found several alcohol cleansing wipes and some antibiotic ointment. I began cleaning and applying the ointment every night after his bath. The bumps seem to go down in size each day. The two largest ones are still visible, especially the worst one. But I think it is healing. The one night a lot of stuff came out of it which I think was good. But, of course, that was extremely painful for him. I almost teared up when I saw a tear in his eye. I think there is so much pressure under the skin. Then, when I was describing it to my mom, I did start crying. I felt so bad that I hurt him when I touch the bumps. Last week I was hauling the biggest containers of water back to the project finally. I hadn't thought I would be able to do it, but I was. Each day it was getting easier. Then this week, the boys wouldn't give me the biggest container anymore. So I went with the one they gave me. It's a medium sized container but it has no lid, so it is actually more difficult to carry. With the largest lidded one, one carries it up on the shoulder. Anyway, I hadn't fetched water since Wednesday, so when I went to fetch it yesterday, the boy with ringworm gave me the medium container. I asked him why he didn't give me the largest. He said, "I don't want you to get tired, you are my doctor now." Thankfully I was behind him on the path so he didn't see me tear up. And, every time I have applied the ointment, he always says thank you...

I'm telling you, every day these children amaze and impress me more, and I become more open.

If you ever plan to come to a developing country, PLEASE remember it is going to be different than where you come from, different than what people tell you, and different than what you expect. You will not know until you are in it. And once you are, you have to decide if you are able to handle it or not. If you cannot be open to seeing bound chickens in a staff room, 67 children in a classroom, eating more than you desire because it's offered, seeing 8, 9, and 10 year olds handling machetes the size of your leg, then you may want to rethink your placements and mostly your personal mission for coming to a developing nation. Those are only a few of the things that I have encountered that back home I might have been shocked by, but they certainly don't outweigh the incredible things that I've witnessed, 3 year olds attempting to greet me, children asking me if I'm okay when they're the ones walking over rocks in bare feet, grandmothers who have no money wanting to make me a basket, kids walking each other home with their arms around each other's shoulders, adult men holding hands as they walk down the road, women carrying 50 pound water containers by a rope around their forehead, children and adults singing and dancing for hours, and so much more.

Flexibility is the key to being a visitor in someone else's home or culture. This brings me to my point with the lawyer. The police are not an organization that should be taken lightly. It is not like some countries, there is corruption and bribery. Don't seek out the police to solve your problems. Look to the coordinator and if they can't help you go to the next step in the GVN process. Please be considerate of the people's lives that you are affecting when you are a guest. Because at the end of your time you may go home and never come back here, but you will still have affected people here for the long term.

After that rant, I want to end on a positive note. We got a new child at our program. She is 8 or 9 and so cute. She is smiling all the time, and when she walks it is almost like a little dance, her steps are lyrical. She has been through a lot, the scars are visible on her face from the abuse she endured. She is a testament to resilience! When she saw the cat at the project she ran towards it shouting, "MEOW! MEOW! MEOW!" Of course, the cat ran away. Later, I caught the cat and helped her pet it. She inspires me and gives me hope! That's why I'm here!!!

Tripe,thought we were friends (14th October 2006)

On Thursday when I arrived at school, I overheard some talk of goat in the staff room. I hoped they weren't doing it just for me since I had really only been there for two weeks. But I carried on as if I hadn't heard the talk. Then I was invited to stay for lunch that day and Friday. Of course I accepted, and we informed Cynthia back at the project. During the second break at 11:00 the Deputy Head Teacher said, "today I want to eat intestines or tripe with you." He kind of giggled, so I laughed nervously and said,"sure."....When lunch time came around, I wasn't sure, but then I knew he was serious. He had implemented a once a month staff lunch to boost morale. I just happened to be lucky enough to be there on the right day. And this goat was particularly large, so the eating would take place over two days!!!

As we walked to the building, I could smell the intestines. I have never smelled anything quite like it. I knew that no matter what I couldn't gag or choke, and I had to eat it all....we sat down. The bowls were like pasta bowls half full of intestines and other 'innards' as they called them. Things like liver, heart, connective arteries between organs. You get the picture. Well, maybe not, the connective arteries are cut so they look like calamari rings....

We also had kale and ugali (maize meal 'bread' like thing). So they showed me how to eat with my hands and the ugali as like a scoop. And the eating commenced. They all ate quickly. I was doing my best. Most of it was tolerable, just extremely chewy, like calamari times 1000....but then there were the pieces that emitted the smell. Darn olfactory sense, why does mine have to be soooo good. Well, of course these pieces were the ones that looked sort of like sea cucumber strips because they had the diverticuli (if you don't know what that is, look it up) on one side. I had a couple pieces, as I was shoving kale and ugali in my mouth. I learned how to swallow larger pieces of food than ever before. Finally I couldn't eat anymore. Everyone else had left the table except the Senior Teacher and the Head Teacher. So I pushed a couple small pieces under a bone (I don't know where the bone came from either) and went on my way.

I was hoping I could decompress and walk home alone. But, being polite they sent me with a student escort. It turned out to be amazing. This kid was like a walking botanist and environmentalist. He pointed out every plant and tree along the way, explaining its uses in the past and today. He talked about how some of the trees were the support for the whole stand of trees the came out from them, he talked about soil erosion and which grasses they put where to prevent it. So, it was a good trip home. And I only used the toilet a few more times than usual. Plus trying to wash the smell off of my hands...

That night Cynthia and I laughed as I told her the story. She teased (she doesn't like the intestines either) about the head, asking me if they had served the brains. I said no...

Yesterday I went to school, kind of sad that it was my last day at Kiteng'ei, I was just starting to feel some of the closeness that I feel at Kathalani. I was also a little excited because today we would get to eat the goat meat, which I knew I liked.

First break at 9:30 was normal, two cups of tea and a piece of chapatti. Then at the 11:00 break when we normally don't eat anything, the Deputy Head Teacher said," today we feast. First we will have the head and some soup." I could hardly believe my ears. Cynthia was right. They handed me a cup of soup, it looked like soup, brothy yellow...didn't exactly smell like any soup I had had before. It wasn't horrible, just strong. Then they came around with the plate of head parts and other various parts...leg extras and I don't know what else. Again I tolerated my small pieces of this...

Then it was time for lunch at 12:40 (yes just an hour between each eating and drinking time)...we went to the room and sat down. The plates were half filled with goat meat, then kale, and a huge piece of ugali. Then, they added fresh sliced tomatoes with cilantro (this was a life saver when trying to chew and swallow large pieces of meat). So, I ate, and ate, and ate. I tried to do my best. I felt like I was in a competitive eating contest. I was flanked by the Deputy Head Teacher and the Head Teacher so I had to perform appropriately. So I ate....then the Deputy Head teacher kept teasing me, or so I thought with," when we are done with this they will bring more." Suddenly the cook brought in a huge kettle of bones. I thought he had just had her bring it in as a joke. But then he started chewing on the bones, getting the little meat scraps off. Then the Head Teacher took some and so did others. Then I took mine, just one. So I ate...then there was a delicious fruit salad in a cup, eaten...then they brought in sodas, so I thought I was in the clear. Sodas generally signify the end of a meal here. Soda number one drank. Soda number two drank. Then he said," and now more soup." I said," for you." He laughed...then for one instant there was nothing consumable in front of me, so another teacher said, 'no soda, no meat, drink something you must be thirsty." Here comes soda number three...sipping it this time. Did I mention that I had to use the toilet by this point, think about it people, two cups of tea, a cup of soup and three sodas!!! I was about halfway through soda number three when the cook brought in mugs and another kettle of soup. I froze; I have to admit I panicked a little. I really could not eat anymore. So, the Deputy and the Head each took some soup. Only one other teacher took some. I was okay, they didn't make me take any...then the cook brought in a second huge kettle of soup, this one darker than the other. They all laughed and sent it back to the kitchen. Whew! So then I walked home feeling fuller than I've ever felt before. Unfortunately I didn't fully enjoy the goat because I was so busy eating as quickly as I could to make sure I got through the entire plate. These people are so small, I don't know how their stomachs take it when they do feast like this, even though I know it is rare and for special occasions.

So, if you are ever offered tripe, consider your options, but if you are offered 'Head Soup' consider them more!!

Bon appetit!

It's been too long! (8th November 2006)

So last week I went to the faster internet place where I can't post photos to just journal. I had a lot typed, I really did. Then the computer crashed, it really did. Then I left. I just couldn't retype it all then.

I had a great last couple of weeks in Machakos. I was invited to Richard's (a local volunteer) family home for lunch. It was so wonderful to meet his family and see his home. He made chapatti for me and his mom made a delicious soup. Then he showed me almost their entire collection of family photos from around the living room and other envelopes. The room was so welcoming as it was decorated with strings of cards and photos attached to the ceiling. Richard gave me a tour of their shamba (farm). He showed me his kiln where he fires bricks from the red dirt here. I got to see where he will build his house in the next year or so (he's 18 years old, people!!) It was just a great afternoon.

Then it was time for WaWa. We went back to the project and found the wawa man there already. He was ready to perform. He was drunk, so it was interesting. It was okay for a while, but then he pulled out a bottle and was drinking while he danced. The kids were watching too, so I didn't like that. And, then he started making lude gestures towards Cynthia and me. We ended the entertainment soon after that by turning off the music. The next day Cynthia went to a funeral and some of her former classmates wanted to know where Wawa was. So I guess the name has stuck!!!

Last weekend was just a nice quiet weekend at the project. The children sang and drummed for me a lot, which I love. We have some amazing talent there. Musyoki is one of the best drummers I've ever heard! Church on Sunday, normal market trip to Kaviani in the afternoon.

Last week at the school we were preparing children for the upcoming exams so there was major reviewing happening. I was just with my regular classrooms.

The rains came in a BIG way on Wednesday morning. I started out, when the rain let up a little, much to Cynthia's dismay without an umbrella (none of us had one, yet) and no jacket (the only one I brought is as thin as a shirt). I made it part way up the driveway (mud bog) before the rain really started again. I kept going. Then I crossed the small stream that hadn't been there the day before. Then I made it to the forest, usually less wet because of the shelter of the trees, where it was pouring, running off of the leaves onto me. When I arrived at pavement, I was soaked. I kept walking, there was really no turning back. I knew I wouldn't make it up the normal path (steep) to the school, so I decided to take one that is more stepped where I have seen the children go before. I started up, the first few steps were fine. Then the right foot (yes sprained ankle foot) slid down, right hand followed into the mud. So I'm frozen there. I know that I don't want to slide all the way back down. I willed my feet to move and I made it up the hill. There I met one of the teachers walking to school. She said, "oh, Joelfre, do you want to go back?" I said no and she shared her umbrella. Everyone here is very cold, but I was really just very wet. And maybe it's the change in humidity (or maybe I was getting the cold I have now) but I was sweating all the time last week. I dried out and the kids survived seeing me all wet. In the one class they kept looking at my hair and then saying things to each other. I pointed to it, and me, and said, "you've never seen a wet mzungu before, this is what one looks like." A couple of the kids that understood laughed quite a bit. Good times!

Thursday afternoon on the walk home I about started crying. I got part way up the road to home at lunchtime, one Mutunga hanging onto each of my hands, and then I realized that that would be the last time I walked with them like that. I was all teary when I got home....then I had to hurry to get to the other school, Kiteng'ei, to say good luck to the Standard Eight classon their exams this week, and goodbye to the staff. I made it and had about 12 extra escorts on the way home, too cute. Friday the staff had a lunch for me and gave me a beautiful Maasai beaded belt with the American flag on it and a carved lion. It was really a nice day.

Then my 'almost' last weekend in Machakos arrived. It came up fast! It was a bit tumultuous as there was a lot of drama going on with the staffing of the project. Some changes were made. It was not exactly what I wanted for my 'almost' last weekend, but things like that happen when they happen. And again, the children sang and drummed for me. So incredible! That's what I'm holding on to from the weekend, that and my first sunburn since I've been in Kenya. I've been putting sunscreen on even when it's cloudy, but Sunday I forgot, and paid for it a little in red skin. But no peel, so it's not too bad. Just look like a big red-faced mzungu now.

Sunday when I was saying goodbye, some of the children were more sensitive to it than I thought they, in particular, would be. And some were tough, like just kind of saying,"goodbye." Mumo (David) tried that with a handshake until I told him I wanted a hug, then he ran to me and hugged me.

I made it to Nairobi with no problems (except a wrenched right ankle in the matatu ride). It is like a Big Brother or Real World house here. Sunday night i went upstairs to get away for a minute. It's just been a long time since I've been around electricity, TV, and that many Americans. We are awfully loud!! But it's probably a good transition as i progress to returning to the States in December. Last night we went to a movie(the whole works, popcorn, hot dogs) at a mall that was just like any other mall, but it was a bit overwhelming for me. And, I didn't enter any of the stores except to walk through one to get to the theatre....

The project that I'm working at here is Mama Tunza's in Kibera (a huge slum area). It has been amazing so far. It is a school and orphanage. So, I'm teaching again, which is not what I thought I would be doing, but it's been fun. I only have 7-8 students in the classes. Thankfully that's all, since the rooms are 6 feet by 8 feet. I'm not joking, folks. There's not a lot of room for movement, but we've been doing some nice singing in Standard One. And I get to see the nursery school from one of the rooms. So fun to make faces with them. I am able to play with them during the class breaks. Two of them are really cuddly and precious. It is shocking at first, there is a lot of activity. And I'm sure just walking through the area that we walk to to get there would scare some. But I'm just trying to be open to it as a different life. The children and the staff are full of life, they're not depressed or depressing. But, it does make me think about ALL of the THINGS t hat I have back home. And all of the things that we, as westerners, have access to so easily. It's really hard to visualize when we walk into Kibera. From the road it looks like a bowl shaped area with stacks and stacks of houses and shacks etc. When I am in it I can't really tell where I'm at. Tomorrow a guy is taking us on a tour of Kibera, which should be really interesting.....

Oh, Nairobi is not as ugly and grey now that the rains have come. There are green spots all over, it's not pretty, but it's not as bad as my first impressions may have been. Funny how perceptions change with moods!!!

Kibera (9th November 2006)

So if you haven't seen The Constant Gardener, wait and see it with me when I get home. I haven't seen it yet, but I feel like I have after being in Kibera for a tour this afternoon.

We went with Peter, an amazing man who lives in Kibera and worked with the crew of The Constant Gardener. He is also in National Geographic September 2005, you should check it out.

The best way to describe it is a labyrinth. I've never been anywhere like it. Mama Tunza's is really just the beginning. When you go into the heart you go into a different world. It is a maze of narrow pathways (muddy and other today), sometimes stepping over running streams of sewage to get to the next path. The houses are made of sticks that are bound with mud, or the other way around? Anyway, most of them have tin roofs. They are connected in the maze in sort of building (concentric?) rectangles. It is the most I've ever heard the phrase "how are you?" The children, even the youngest (like 18 months) are saying it. It is almost like a chant when the first one sees a mzungu, then many join in. They run up to touch your hands. It was very moving. All of the people were very friendly that we encountered, adults and children.

If you are in Kenya as a GVN make sure you ask to have Peter take you on the tour. As you walk along he shows you sites from the movie, where each part was filmed, how they remade areas for staging, what items were donated by the movie, etc. It is 2-3 hours of total interest and amazement. We stopped at a school at one point and had an impromptu concert in our honor. They sang a great welcoming song.

It is hard to imagine how 1,000,000 people live in this small area until you are in the middle of it. The rows of stalls, usually with sleeping in the back seem to be never-ending. Of course, the smells and sights are exciting and vibrant. The smells range from raw sewage to garbage, to mandazi (the triangular fry bread) to fish in piles (raw and fried) to intestines on an open fire (sounds like a Christmas tune). I couldn't get a picture of the intestines, the cook was yelling, "no pictures." Sorry folks.

At the edge of the walk we were greeted by the local Councillor (elected official in a fancy car). He said, "was Kibera wonderful?" Two of us said yes. He said, "only wonderful in that it's so dirty. You don't have places like this in your country." We tried to say the people were wonderful. Then he asked if we had structures like that(pointing to a row of block stalls with tin roofs) in your country. I said we have some that are similar, but not like it is in Kibera. I don't think he really believed that we have anything even similar in the States. It made me want to go to the slums in New York or Chicago or Los Angeles and find out what it does look like there. Maybe that's my next trip when I get home...hmmmm

Gorillas in the Mist (30th November 2006)

After my adventures in Cape Town I was in Nairobi for just a day. I attended the World AIDS Day celebration in Kibera on Saturday. There were some wonderful performances and an art display by HIV+ artists showing the virus in their body through paint and words on canvas.

That night, my fellow volunteers and I celebrated our last night together at a local bar in Nairobi before the taxi came to take me to the bus station at 10:30 pm for the overnight ride to Kampala. From Cape Town to Uganda, certainly going the extremes...

The bus ride was bumpy but fine. Then we got to the border at about 7 in the morning. I was a bit groggy, and nervous, and excited. I left the bus, filled out my paperwork in Kenya, and then followed the crowd as we walked across the border. It started raining, we crossed a bridge. It did feel like we were in a movie suddenly. I just kept going. Then the Ugandan paperwork and I was in Uganda....we arrived in Kampala a few hours later.

Kampala doesn't feel like a big city, though there are millions that call it home. It looks a bit like what I imagine, from tv and movies, old Asian cities to look like. It's a bit dingy etc. But I came here for the gorillas so that was really all that mattered.

Monday morning, after some confusion and time at the safari office, we were on our way to Kisoro. It was just me, Ditte (Danish nurse), Maria (Swedish nurse and co-worker of Ditte), and our driver/guide Geoffrey. As we drove away from the city the landscape just kept getting more and more green. GREEN! It's the best way to describe this country. It's absolutely stunningly green! The first 7 hours was on nice paved roads, and then it was 88 kilometres on dirt. That's only like 55 miles, but it was a long 55 miles....

At 6:00 or so we left the pavement on the 'short cut'. We ascended hills that were lush and amazing. The terraced farming reaches the tops of the hills like patchwork quilts. You may remember that I'm not a fan of heights. It has rained a lot in Uganda lately, we are on a dirt road in the mountains....it was beautiful and scary for me at the same time. Then Geoffrey told us about the lake that we were going around, it's the deepest lake in Africa...good times. Now, in my logical head I know that it wouldn't have mattered if the lake were deep or shallow had we went over the edge, but still....

At 7:30 we joined the "main road." It wasn't much different than the short cut, just bumpier, maybe not quite as high up and it had three guard rails, for a total of about 80 feet. I thought we might not get to our destination, but we pulled in about 9. We must have looked pretty tired as the hotel staff took our dinner orders while we checked in....

Tuesday was the big day! Gorilla tracking!!!!!!!!!!!!! We were excited, we headed out to the Bwinde Impenetrable Forest...This is an extremely organized, well-run project to protect and preserve the gorillas. The guide went over rules and expectations. We hiked down for about an hour when we got the word (our guide and armed guards were in constant contact with rangers who had went out tracking early in the morning to find the gorillas) that the gorillas were about an hour ahead of us. That gave us all good energy to move even faster! When we met up with the rangers, we left our belongings with them and just took our cameras and ourselves to the gorillas.

We had one hour of encounter with the gorillas. The feeling of the whole experience was very safe. The guide and the ranger (now unarmed) that went with us were very calm. They would machete the bush and brush so that we could see better. They helped us move about through the rain forest to get closer but not too close. The prescribed distance is 7 metres (20 feet?) but often we were more like 12 feet from the gorillas. And at one point, a female gorilla was literally next to me. Of course, you are not to make sudden movements or eye contact if they are close to you, so I stood there frozen. The ranger (he was next to me on the other side) shook a stick at her and she covered her face with her hand like she was embarrassed or shamed. I felt bad, it was really me that was in her way. The gorillas are so human-like. The toddler that we saw was adorable, playing with another just like children. We were extremely fortunate to see all 18 of the gorillas in this family, including two silverbacks. They were huge, and I was glad it wasn't one of them that was next to me!

The hike out was long, but not too excruciating. We were all so excited by what we had just witnessed that we made it up to the station, only being rained on at the last part. Seeing the gorillas was not a lifelong dream for me like it is for some, but I'm so glad I did it. I will never forget them.

Yesterday we travelled back to Kampala, another long car ride, about 12 hours....back over the short cut...scary even in the daylight! Today I'm in Kampala waiting to catch my bus later this afternoon. Sitting here in the internet cafe I've heard some Christmas music and had some waves of homesickness. Only two weeks left before I leave Kenya.